Mustique

Feeling very relaxed after our stay in Bequia, and somewhat disappointed to be leaving, we weighed anchor and motored out of the anchorage mid morning, en route to Mustique, a private Island a short hop south east from Bequia.

Being too lazy to sail upwind, we motored the last 2-3 miles to Mustique and were met by a RIB who helped us pick up a mooring buoy close into shore. The deal in Mustique is that anchoring is not allowed unless all mooring are full, and it’s USD 75 for three nights’ stay in Admiratly Bay.

We had read the pilot book’s description of Mustique’s status as a private island, owned and operated by the Mustique Company and frequented by the rich and famous desperate for some privacy away from prying eyes.

We were handed a map on arrival onshore which outlined the area we were allowed to visit; a strip of beach and small winding roads around 2 miles in length, with all other areas out of bound unless accompanied by a guest of the island resort or on an official tour.

Above and below - some of the shops open to tourists on the island

After orientating ourselves (didn’t take long) and a dip in the crystal waters, we headed to the infamous** Basil’s Bar for a cold beer and noticed Richard E Grant on the table beside us. He was starstruck by our presence, naturally.

** Basil’s bar’s peculiar claim to fame is having been voted one of the world’s top ten bars in 1978. In reality it’s famous because it’s the only official tourist bar on the island, if it was anywhere else you wouldn’t choose to visit.

After a bit of grub and some more swimming and lounging, we had an early night and looked forward to our remaining time on the island.

Lounging and swimming in Mustique is tough...

The following day we went in search of turtles around the anchorage and beach with little success, the water was so clear and warm. However, that no one was disappointed.

When lounging on the back of the boat, Adam and I noticed the absence of our dinghy, the cause of which we determined by some “Creative” knot tying by an anonymous crew member. Adam and I heroically swam after the dinghy and rescued it, if you didn’t know better you’d swear we had just stepped off the Baywatch set.

In the course of retrieving the dinghy, passing the stern of another boat who had offered to launch their dinghy and help us chase ours, I heard a familiar voice which initially I couldn’t place. After a bit of headscratching, I realised it was an acquaintance (Dom) from London who had been a trumpet player in a band I had helped with their sound equipment a few years before. I had planned to call into them later that afternoon to say hello but Adam got in first with a cryptic introduction in Basil’s by enquiring “so I hear you’re a trumpet player?”.

Dom was baffled by the initial contact but soon put 2&2 together and invited us to sundowners on their boat that evening.

Dom and his wife, Caroline were living in the US and had chartered for a week in the Grenadines with four of their friends from London, we had a great time aboard their lovely charter yacht and extracted ourselves just in time for them to make their dinner reservation on one of the exclusive hillside restaurants.

After a Barbie of chicken on the boat, we went ashore to Basil’s and reconvened with Dom & crew. We continued what we had started that evening and after a few further libations, headed back to Rafiki to get the mirror ball rigged and the party tunes on to keep the party going. The next morning Dom & crew were gone, we unfortunately didn’t get to wave them off but kept our hangovers as a souvenir of the great times had.

This is what happens when you get the mirror ball (and gallons of rum) out on the boat

I was looking forward to the following day as by pure chance, my friends Henry & Lindsay were arriving on the island in preparation for Katie, Henry’s twin sister’s wedding ceremony and party.

We met Henry and Lindsay in Basil’s and after a drink and some catching up, they were kind enough to take Clodagh and I on an island tour in their souped up off road golf buggy. We were blown away by some of the houses and resorts the island offers and quickly understood the appeal for the elite. From Tommy Hilfiger’s imported Florida Palm trees (apparently they local ones are too bendy) to Mick Jagger’s palatial pad, to the quaint runway & “terminal”, it was a real treat to see if from the inside.

The following day Henry visited Rafiki and we said our goodbyes, they had an intense schedule of wedding celebration and partying to get stuck into! Thanks Henry and Lindsay for meeting and your hospitality.

Pete and Henry on the bow of Rafiki

Before leaving the next day, we took in a visit to the “village” which is the area populated by the island’s workers, not strictly open to tourists. We were sad to only ventured this far on our last night since there was cheap, delicious food & drink, great music and a more genuine vibe than the rest of the island put together….. We slept well fed and watered and got our heads down before our crossing to Tobago Cays the following day.

The crew in the world famous Basils Bar