Tuamotus

While I'm writing this blog I'm sitting under the most beautiful night sky. The moon is rising on the horizon which I've never experienced so clearly before and the stars are so bright. It's just incredible. The sea is so still it looks like a mirror. We are currently on our way from Takaroa to Fakarava.

So after a 400 mile uneventful sail from Niku Hiva, we arrived at Takaroa just after sunrise. We were right on time for the current to be slightly against us, helping us to navigate the small passage into the atoll's lagoon (when the current is against us, it means water moves over the rudder quicker and therefore we can steer more easily). After slowly navigating around the lagoon and dodging some unmarked reefs along with submerged old oyster buoys, we decided to set up camp beside the only two other yachts we had spotted. We dropped anchor in possibly one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. There was a reef right in front of us and the lagoon's different shades of blue were unbelievable. Palm trees stood along the beach with three houses scattered among them. One word came to mind…paradise.

Our days in Takaroa were very relaxing to say the least mainly filled with reading, eating, drinking and swimming. One morning Adam and Damo headed off with a local couple Robert and Myna Palmer to the town across the lagoon to see the inter-island sports and music festival called Heiva. They enjoyed it a lot and particularly enjoyed the local ladies dancing! After they returned from the town, our American neighbours (John and Lynette onboard White Hawk) asked if we'd like to join them for a snorkel since our outboard was still under the weather. Off we piled into their dinghy to the middle of the lagoon. Did I mention that there's sharks in the water and that I'm scared of my own shadow and Damo is not much better than me? Luckily John had brought his spear gun, hoping to catch himself some dinner. I've never been so happy to see a gun in my whole life. Little to John's knowledge, he had been up graded to mine and Damo's best friend and we weren't leaving his side. We did see plenty of fish, no sharks and lots of colourful coral. Needless to say , John caught no fish and it wasn't due to his fishing ability!

That evening we went into shore to thank the Palmers for giving the lads a lift into town. We gave them some fresh fruit and coke cans which were greatly received. Robert has a very sweet tooth and citrus fruit is very hard to come by in the Tuamotus. Very kindly they asked us in and insisted we stayed for dinner along with their son Louis, the American couple and their French friend Francois who owned the other boat beside us. It was a very international table. They informed us why all the pearl farms are gone in Takaroa since December 2014. This is due to some kind of seaweed consuming all the oxygen in the water leaving the oysters with none. All the farms are gone and many families have moved from the atoll. They told us what it was like during the height of the farming years which was all so interesting. They informed us that we were the 8th boat ever to stop outside their house and the first Irish they have ever met. Myself and Pete felt very special, Adam and Damo not so much. We ate delicious local kingfish ceviche along with rice, spuds and salad. They were fantastic hosts and wonderful company. It's a night none of us will forget.

We could have spent longer in Takaroa but sadly time is ticking and we have to keep moving. We left after one last dip in the beautiful lagoon. Takaroa we absolutely loved you.

After a little over night hop we arrived into Fakarava also know as shark-arava. We decided to stay in the north end of the island. The lagoon covers an area of 1121 sq km. I know I've said it before but I think we found paradise again. The water was amazing, it was so beautiful is looked fake. While we were there Adam and Damo did a dive with Top Dive diving school. Myself and Pete snorkelled. We found them very good and well organised, it also helped that we were the only ones going out with them on the morning we did. They brought us to the outside of the northern pass. Now, I hadn't been in swimming yet due to the islands nick name so our diving instructor (along with a lady I had bought apples from the previous day) got interrogated about the shark situation. He told me not to worry as there are plenty of sharks about so we'll defo see them also the bigger and fatter they are the better as they're well fed and probably won't go for you. The skinny ones though we need to watch out for. Are you kidding me?! Also during my interrogation he informed us that Tiger and Bull sharks are seen in these waters but once again don't worry....they are all fat and very lazy! So with my heart racing and a very dry mouth I decided to man up and confront these sharks by placing myself right in the middle of the boys. Anyway as soon as we got in and put the heads under , there were Black Tip and Grey Reef sharks everywhere who were more scared of us than we were of them (semi debatable!). The snorkelling was the best I/we had ever seen. It was worth every penny and the boys loved every second of the dives too. It was just wonderful.

Other days on Fakarava we rented bikes from the yacht services. Cycling around the island was lovely but I'd recommend not doing it from during the middle of the day unless you want to tan, burn or lose your total body weight in sweat. The roads are pretty good and it's all flat. We visited some pearl shops along the way to suss out which ones had the best deal. So for really good quality pearls, the black pearl shop on the main road has the best prices. Then for the cheaper pearls there's some local shops dotted about. One experience we loved was the pearl lotto in Havaiki pearl guesthouse. Here we got to dive for our own oysters with the hotel owner Jochaim. Then he explained about the farming and grafting/seeding (they insert a small bead that the oyster then covers with pearl - this is how they make pearls perfectly round) of the pearls . Then we all picked an oyster and opened it, keeping whatever pearl was found inside. Much to mine and Jochaim's disgust Adam picked the most beautiful, massive and perfect shaped pearl. I was raging I didn't get his and sadly he wouldn't swop it for my not so perfect pearl!

The hotel itself is a lovely place to spend the day. There's a lovely beach with nice snorkelling and lots of nurse sharks about. Also the beach restaurant is nice for lunch , I'd highly recommend the Poisson Cru. We spent about a week in Fakarava, for me it wasn't long enough. I'm already looking forward to going back whenever that may be.

Clo x